SONOMA COAST

BY SONOMA-CUTRER

When it comes to polenta, it is all about the corn. Corn and summer are practically synonyms that go hand-in-hand. While this recipe doesn’t use fresh corn, there are varieties of corn that make for better polenta than others. One such varietal is Otto File, Eight-Row Flint. Otto File is an heirloom varietal of corn that originally was grown in New England before any Europeans settled the North American continent. While the yields are much smaller than your typical yellow summer corn, Otto File produces such a sweet flavor and creamy consistency, you might want to try the recipe without any butter or cheese first.

Every bite of this dish will make your mouth water for more fish, more corn, and more Sonoma-Cutrer Founders Reserve Chardonnay.

INGREDIENTS

1 loin of albacore tuna

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

4 tablespoons kosher salt

4 cups water

4 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a medium sauce pot, begin to heat your water. Before the water boils, whisk in the dry polenta. Turn the heat down to low and cover the pot, stirring every 5 minutes so the bottom does not burn.

2. The polenta will be cooked after about 30 minutes, however, the longer you leave it on the heat the thicker it will become. I prefer a soft polenta, with the consistency of porridge, but you may opt to cook it longer.

3. When you are 5-10 minutes from serving, whisk in the butter and cheese and stir to fully incorporate.

4. In a bowl, mix together the salt and paprika. Coat the tuna loin with the salt mixture.

5. In a sauté pan, add 2 tbsp. of olive oil. Heat at medium/high and just as the oil begins to smoke, add the tuna. The goal here is to sear each side, without cooking the fish all the way through. Tuna, like most fish, can be eaten raw or undercooked without a high risk of illness (not recommended if pregnant or breastfeeding).

6. Slice the tuna against the grain into ½ inch slices and serve over the top of the polenta.

BY CHEF JOHN ASH 

This recipe depends on sourcing the best scallops available. Diver scallops (which are also known as dry pack) are harvested daily and never put into a brine solution. This recipe makes more cauliflower puree than you’ll need but that’s a good thing! Cover and refrigerate for another use. The 2016 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay pairs beautifully with this delicate dish.

INGREDIENTS

Canola oil as needed

1/4 Cup drained capers, patted dry

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1-1/4 pounds diver scallops, side muscle removed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter; more as needed

2 teaspoons finely chopped tarragon

Cauliflower Puree |

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium yellow onion, peeled and diced

4 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 2 pound head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets

2 cups heavy cream or chicken stock (or combination of the two)

1 sprig thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Drops of lemon juice and cayenne to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes; lower heat as necessary to prevent browning.

2. Add cauliflower, cream and/or stock, and thyme. Cover, bring to a simmer, and cook, adjusting heat to maintain simmer, until cauliflower is tender, about 20 minutes. Uncover and continue to simmer for another 3 or 4 minutes to thicken the liquid. Discard thyme sprig.

3. Using a blender or immersion blender, blend cauliflower and liquid to form a very smooth purée. Season to your taste with salt, white pepper, drops of lemon juice and a little cayenne. You can adjust purée consistency as needed: Thicken by cooking down further while stirring often over low heat or thin by whisking in liquid, such as stock, cream, or water. Serve warm.

4. Heat 1/4 inch of the oil in a medium deep sided saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the capers and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme and cook until the capers are golden and crisp, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon zest, cook for just a few seconds, and then, using a slotted spoon, transfer the capers, thyme, and zest to a paper-towel-lined plate.

5. Pat the scallops dry. Heat a large heavy duty non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add a tablespoon or so of oil and the butter. Season the scallops with salt. Working in batches if necessary to keep from crowding, cook the scallops, undisturbed, until very well browned on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook until just barely cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes more, depending on size. Transfer

6. Spoon some of the cauliflower purée among serving plates, and top with the scallops. Garnish with the fried capers and tarragon, and serve.

BY CHEF JOHN ASH 

The citrus juices in this delectable dish both prepare and flavor the scallops. Pairs beautifully The Cutrer Chardonnay.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound small bay scallops

1 cup (about 10 whole) cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 tsp serrano chile or to taste

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish

2/3 cup finely diced red onion

1 cup fresh orange juice

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

Drops of hot sauce to taste

1 tsp sugar or so to taste

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive bowl and stir to mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes but no longer than 2 hours.

2. Spoon the ceviche into small glasses and garnish with cilantro sprigs.

BY CHEF JOHN ASH 

This easy first course depends on getting the best, freshest, and largest scallops possible. Specify to your fishmonger that you want dry pack or diver scallops. Dry-packed scallops are scallops that are shucked, packed up, and shipped on ice without chemical additives. Wet packed scallops are soaked in water and sodium tripolyphosphate, meaning the scallop becomes bloated with water and chemical additives, not good! There are several good online sources if you don’t have a good local source. Delicious as a first course with the 2022 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay.

INGREDIENTS

1 small shallot, peeled and sliced thinly crosswise Flaky sea salt

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1/2-pound large sea scallops, side muscle removed and discarded

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon capers, drained

A few small basil leaves

1 small lime, halved

An ounce or two salmon caviar

Fruity virgin olive oil, for drizzling

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Put sliced shallots in a small bowl and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add vinegar and mix gently, keeping shallots submerged. Leave at room temperature for at least 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. The remaining vinegar may be reserved for another use, such as salad dressing.

2. With a sharp knife, slice each scallop crosswise in half slices. Distribute slices among chilled plates, laying them flat in a circular pattern. Sprinkle scallops with salt, a little red pepper, a few capers, some pickled shallot and salmon caviar.

3. Garnish with torn or sliced basil leaves. Give each plate a squeeze of lime juice and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.

BY JOHN ASH 

Any cool shaped pasta can be used here. I chose trofie because it has nooks and crannies for the sauce to get into. This is a simple recipe and great for a quick weeknight entrée. The butter browned pine nuts are delicious but if you can’t find them then slivered almonds also are great. This has the richness to go with the 2024 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay.

INGREDIENTS

12 ounces dry trofie pasta

6 ounces thick sliced bacon sliced into thin strips

5 tablespoons salted butter

1/3 cup pine nuts

1 large lemon, zested and juiced

1 big pinch red chile flakes

1/4 cup roughly chopped parsley

3/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino cheese plus more for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Heat 2 quarts lightly salted water to a boil in a deep saucepan and add the pasta. Cook until al dente, about 10 minutes, reserving some pasta water.

2. Separately in a skillet cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until just crisp. Drain on paper towels and reserve.

3. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small skillet. When it foams, add the pine nuts, and cook, swirling the pan every so often, until they turn brown and toasty. Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice.

4. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of cooking water then return them to the warm saucepan. Add a splash of pasta water. Stir well then cover for one minute.

5. Stir in the pine nuts with their butter, lemon juice, lemon zest, chile flakes, parsley, and reserved bacon. Gradually add the grated cheese, stirring constantly, adding more pasta water as needed to reach your desired consistency.

6. Serve warm with extra cheese sprinkled on top.