SONOMA COAST

BY CHEF JOHN ASH

The history of risotto is rife with conflicting theories about its origins, however, it is certain that rice was first introduced to Italy by the Arabs during the Middle Ages.  Saffron traditionally flavors risotto.  You can add it if you like but this version depends on bacon and sweet corn to match it to the rich Vine Hill Pinot Noir.

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE RISOTTO:

6 ounces lean bacon or pancetta, diced

6 cups corn stock (see recipe below) or rich chicken stock

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 medium leek, white and light green parts only, finely chopped

1 cup arborio or carnaroli rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 ½ cups raw corn kernels (from 2 ears corn)

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons minced chives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CORN STACK (OPTIONAL):

2 corn cobs (kernels removed and reserved for risotto)

1 onion, cut into quarters

1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 celery rib, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces

Dark green leaves from leek (reserve white and light green parts for risotto)

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain the bacon on paper towels and reserve 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat.

2. Bring the corn stock or chicken stock to a simmer in a saucepan and keep it simmering as you prepare the risotto.

3. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a wide, high-sided sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the reserved bacon fat and rice and cook, stirring occasionally until grains look translucent. Add leeks and cook until they are softened but not browned, about 6 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

4. Pour in wine and cook, stirring, until it has all been absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add a ladleful of hot stock to the rice mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until rice has absorbed all of the stock. Continue cooking, adding ladles of stock whenever rice mixture looks dry and continue stirring regularly. When half the stock has been added, stir in corn. Continue cooking until all of the stock.

5. Remove risotto from heat and stir in Parmesan and bacon along with remaining tablespoon of butter. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Uncover risotto, stir vigorously and season to taste with salt and pepper. Before serving, stir in the chives.

6. For the corn stock combine all ingredients with 6 cups water in a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat so liquid is simmering; cover pot and let simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Add enough water to bring liquid up to 6 cups. Note: To shuck corn even in the height of the season, the easiest way to do it is in the microwave. It takes just 3 or 4 minutes

BY CHEF JOHN ASH

Here we are creating a compound butter which is a classic French accompaniment to meats and vegetables. Miso paste makes a great butter. It brings that “umami” flavor to the meat. You’ve no doubt heard chefs talking about umami. It roughly translates to “deliciousness”. This would go great with the equally delicious Vine Hill Pinot Noir.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup (1 stick) softened unsalted butter

2 tablespoons white or yellow miso paste

1 tablespoon minced chives

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper plus more for seasoning steak

4 New York steaks, each 6 – 8 ounces at room temperature

Olive oil

Kosher salt

Garnish: Grilled scallions and cultivated wild mushrooms

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a small bowl beat the butter, miso, chives, garlic and black pepper together. Spoon mixture onto a square of plastic wrap, fold wrap over and form into a sausage shape, twisting the ends to about 1-1/2 inches thick. Refrigerate till firm. Can be made several days ahead and stored refrigerated or frozen.

2. Pat steak dry, brush with oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. With a grill or grill pan on moderately high heat, grill the steaks until medium rare (135 degrees or so), about 5 minutes. Good time to pull out your instant read meat thermometer.

3. Top each steak with a tablespoon of the miso butter and serve with grilled scallions and mushrooms of your choice.

BY CHEF JOHN ASH

Nduja is a soft, spreadable fermented pork salume, spiked with fiery Calabrian chiles. Pronounced “en-DOO-ya,” It originated in Spilinga, a small Calabrian town. Ten years ago, you had to “know a guy” in order to get your hands on it or smuggle some back with you from a trip to Italy. These days, you can find ‘nduja in specialty food shops, so you no longer need to break any laws or dine at a fancy restaurant to enjoy it. Look for it in markets that carry Italian charcuterie. The rich spiciness of this would work well with the 2023 Vine Hill Pinot Noir.

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

2 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

2-1/2 cups homemade or store bought marinara

1-1/2 cups chicken or other meat stock

6 ounces ‘nduja

12 ounces ziti or other short pasta broken into 2-inch pieces

2 ounces freshly grated pecorino cheese Kosher salt

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a deep saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook stirring until vegetables are softened but not brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Add marinara and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

2. Add ‘nduja and with a wooden spoon stir into sauce. Cook, stirring constantly until ‘nduja is fully emulsified and incorporated into the sauce, about 3 minutes.

3. Cook pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. Add to sauce tossing until it coats the pasta. Add pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup increments as needed. Remove from heat, add half the cheese and stir to incorporate. Season to taste with salt. Serve immediately passing remaining raining cheese at the table.

BY JOHN ASH

Reminiscent of one of the great Southern dishes, be sure to use regular stone ground grits and not the quick cooking variety. Flavor and texture are much better. My two favorite producers are Anson Mills and Weisenberger. This dish works well with the 2023 Vine Hill Pinot Noir.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup stone ground grits

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino cheese plus more for garnish

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallot or green onion

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1 pinch of red-pepper flakes

1 bunch (6 ounces) collard greens, tough stems removed, leaves cut into 1-inch pieces

1 bunch (10 ounces) Swiss chard, leaves and stems cut into 1-inch pieces

5 ounces Tuscan kale, tough stems removed , leaves cut into 1 inch pieces

1 cup chicken or vegetable stock

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Hot sauce, to serve

Salt and black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Make the grits: In a medium saucepan, heat the stock and 2 cups of water over medium-high until boiling. Once boiling, slowly pour in the grits while whisking to prevent lumps. Once the grits come to a boil, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, whisking frequently, until thickened, 20 minutes or so.

2. Remove the pan from the stove. Season the grits with the pepper, then stir in the cheese. Season to taste with salt. Set aside covered to keep warm.

3. Meanwhile make the Greens: Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high. Add the shallot and garlic, and cook, stirring often, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the red-pepper flakes, collards, chard and kale. Toss to combine until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt, add the stock and bring to a simmer.

4. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, and season again to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the grits among plates and top with the greens a bit of pecorino cheese and a dash of hot sauce.